Sewing the 24/7 top
My mum had been wanting some new tops and rather than going out clothing shopping, I convinced her to buy me some fabric so I could make her some up. This is my first attempt at adult clothing (I feel like there is a lot riding on this as my Mum could potentially become a major fabric enabler for me, all things going well). After having a hunt around my ever growing collection of patterns, I finally decided to start on the Ellie and Mac 27/7 top. Looking at the photos on their website and a read through the instructions that come with the pattern I decided it ticks all the instructions that mum gave me; comfortable, sleeves, relaxed/loose fit.
Overall Thoughts
Overall I really like this pattern, it is super quick and easy to put together, fits comfortably and is a great way to use up some smaller leftover pieces of favourite fabrics.
Pattern options and my choices
My Mum’s measurements, in inches were; Bust 43, Waist 39, Hips 38. So while my Mum has not much in the hips or backside I did have to go to the XXL size to get the bust in. I did think about grading the pattern down from the waist but I wanted to see how it came out first as is.
The pattern itself is pretty simple, both to print out and to cut the fabric out. There are only 5 pieces (2 back, 2 front and a neckband) and no separate arms.
I did make this pattern exactly as per instructions, the only minor exception being that I added some clear elastic to the shoulder seam, just to give them some reinforcing.
I did not hem the top before sewing the sides, it didn’t really seem to make any difference as to how easy it was to hem at the end, maybe if it was a small size it would be easier to hem the sleeves first.
The tutorial does give instructions for a full bust adjustment, although I think these may have just been generically added to the pattern instructions? The pattern has no separate sleeves, I think you would call it a dolman style top, I’m not actually sure a FBA would work well with this?
Fabric
The fabric for this was all cotton lycra (CL), the scattered floral on ink was 220g/ms while the black and white stripe I’m not 100% sure of the weight, It felt slightly very similar to the floral so I would guess it is around the same.
Machine settings
Very first step involved basting down the pleat in the back which I just quickly did with my sewing machine, and then quickly tacked it onto the bodice top so it wouldn’t move around when I do the main seam with my overlocker.
Most of the construction for this was done on my Janome My Lock 644D (overlocker/serger). I used 75/11 schmetz super stretch HAx1SP needles and threaded with generic overlocker cones, black for needles and dark grey in loopers (the inside of the floral fabric is white and the dark grey blended a bit better than black). Everyone’s overlocker is going to have slightly different settings, for my machine and this fabric. I had my differential feed set to 1.75, stitch length at 2.3, and my tension dials (left to right) were 4, 3.9, 4, 3.9. Make sure you run some tests on the fabric you are using to check your own settings are right before starting on the pattern.
Once the main construction was completed, I switched back to my Singer 4411, which doesn’t really have a lot of options for a stretch stitch. I used a schmetz 80/12 Jersey needle and I used what I think is a blind hem stretch stitch? With the width set to 6 and stitch length at 1. It just seemed to look a little nicer than a plain zig zag.
Pros and Cons
I did like the simplicity of the pattern pieces and having no separate arms, this also meant that I couldn’t put them on the wrong way around.
The sizing is reasonably accurate, but it’s also a fairly loose fitting top so there is plenty of leeway in the fit anyway.
It’s a very simple and quick sew.
The seam allowance is ¼ inch, which I can find a bit tricky when using an overlocker/serger, my overlocked seam is ¼ inch in itself, so I have to carefully just skim the edge of the fabric without really cutting into it at all.
I found the armpit to be a tiny bit too snug, but that may differ for others.
There is no option to make it long sleeved. I could probably figure it out for myself but it just seems like an easy pattern piece that could have been added.
It’s a very comfortable top.
It’s a great pattern to use up some random bits of leftover fabric.
The neck band didn’t come out great, but that may be more down to my sewing skills, and I really should have steamed it before taking photos.
Things to try next time
If I make another for my Mum then I would probably take the time to grade it down a size or two from the waist.
I think the pattern would actually be easy to hack to make a great simple and fast to make T-shirt, just by taking the pleat out of the back and having no colour blocking.
I might try bringing the arm a bit lower on the pattern to give it a bit more room, maybe even a bit of a batwing look.
